Vietnam Hop Along - Hanoi and Ha Long Bay

Calling my Vietnam story a “hop along” isn’t a metaphor, it’s the literal description of how I navigated the trip. Last year, in 2024, Eddie and I had planned to visit Vietnam and Cambodia over the Christmas holidays.

But just a few days before departure, life threw me a curveball – found out that I had a stress fracture in my left foot. The doctor’s advice? Cancel the trip, stay off my feet, and embrace some serious couch time and prep for a surgery. My response? Absolutely not.

On one hand, canceling would’ve meant losing all our payments. On the other hand, I was way too excited to back out . Our itinerary seemed manageable, and, in MY opinion, my injury was more of an inconvenience than a dealbreaker. So, I strapped on a ‘boot,’ grabbed a pair of crutches, and off I went—hobbling through 10 days, 2 countries, 5 cities, 6 flights, and even a boat cruise. I was slow and clunky, but I made it.

With the backstory of my orthopedic fashion statement out of the way, let’s dive into the fun part—the trip itself!

This was our first time in Vietnam, so I did my homework. After some research and taking a good look at the S-shaped country stretching over 1,650 kilometers from North to South, we settled on a "sampler trip." The plan? A taste of each region: Hanoi and Ha Long Bay in the North, Hoi An in the Central region, and Ho Chi Minh City (formerly Saigon) in the South.

From my experiences in Asia, I knew transportation logistics would be anything but straightforward, especially with the language barrier and limited time. So, we enlisted a private tour company, Indochina Tour, to handle the heavy lifting —hotels, cars, drivers, guides, and internal flights. It was a good decision.

We started in the North.

Hanoi

We landed in Hanoi at 11 PM, not exactly as planned. A 2-hour flight delay from Shanghai and a 1.5-hour wait at the Vietnamese immigration had it their way. Thankfully, our hotel was in the bustling Old Quarter, where the night was still young. Soooo … we grabbed a cold beer at a nearby craft brewery, sat on tiny sidewalk chairs, and wound down, letting the chaos of the day melt away. With spirits lifted, we were ready for the adventure ahead.

We had only one day in Hanoi, so we tried to pack in as much as possible. Huy, our local guide, not only worked it all out with ease, but also managed to sprinkle a few extras along the way, making our day even more unforgettable.

We kicked off the morning with a visit to Tran Quoc Temple, a Buddhist sanctuary perched on a small island in West Lake (Ho Tay), a centerpiece of Hanoi. This ancient site is most famous for its 1,500-year-old Tran Quoc Pagoda, the oldest in the city and the final resting place for high ranked monks. The pagoda’s height and unique decorations stand out—white Buddha statues adorn each level, facing all four corners as if guarding the world, present and past.

Like the Buddhist temples I’ve seen in China and Thailand, Tran Quoc is an active place of worship, attracting worshippers and tourists alike. Everywhere we turned, there were fresh offerings such as pomelos, Buddha’s hand fruits, apple bananas, accompanied by the scent of burning incense drifting from shrines. In the temple courtyard, a riot of colours from flowers, fruits, and bright paintwork created a vibrant yet peaceful atmosphere. Among the many Buddhist symbols decorating the walls, the lotus flower was the most prominent - it represents enlightenment and perseverance, just as beauty and purity can bloom from muddy waters.

It was a winter day, though it felt more like spring, with temperature in the low 20C, bright blue skies, sunshine, and a light breeze from the lake.

Strolling the quiet temple paths, we admired the many intricate bonsai arrangements before arriving at another Tran Quoc treasure: a Bodhi tree grown from a cutting of the original Bodhi tree, under which Buddha attained enlightenment in India. We couldn’t get close to it, but standing in its presence was enough; it felt calm and grounding.

Our next stop was the Temple of Literature. Nowadays a museum, it was original built in the 11th century to serve as an imperial academy meant to educate young scholars in the teachings of Confucius and various disciplines so that they become mandarins—high-ranking civil or military officials of the empire.

The entrance is marked by a grand, three-door stone gate. While this architectural feature is commonly associated with Buddhism, it is also present in Taoist and Confucian temples, where it is typically adorned with motifs like dragons, phoenixes, the sun, and Chinese characters. In Vietnam, where these philosophies and religious practices tend to coexist, the three-door gate adornments tend to include them all. Moreover, it also used to be a symbol of the rigid imperial hierarchy: the central door was exclusively for the king, while the side doors were for lesser dignitaries and commoners. Nowadays, everyone walks through any door that is open, typically ... through the main door.

Even by today’s standards, the academy’s size and layout are impressive. The grounds are a seamless blend of courtyards and gardens, very peaceful. Reading the different museum inscriptions, I was impressed to learn how serious was education, so far back in time.  It took a scholar 3 to 7 years to complete and the high achievers are immortalized on stone stele. Regular exams were held in tiny, weaved cabins and the museum documents mentioned of harsh punishments in case of misbehaviour. I wondered, were they worried about cheating even back then?

Afterwards, on our way to lunch, we made a stop at a truly special place—Hong Ngoc Fine Art, an art and craft shop featuring works made by people with disabilities. I had read about Vietnam’s programs to help individuals with disabilities earn a living and lead purposeful lives, but this was my first time experiencing one firsthand.  The shop was filled with stunning hand-embroidered canvases, so detailed and delicate they could rival paintings, alongside beautiful lacquer artifacts and ceramics. While a few artisans were working right there, most of the items came from ateliers across the country.

Being only the first day of our trip and limited to a carry-on luggage, I wasn’t really planning to buy anything. But there’s no harm in browsing, right? Well, that lasted about five minutes. I soon found myself captivated by a silk embroidery that I felt was the perfect piece to capture the spirit of Vietnam and the artistry I had just witnessed. After making my choice, I spotted a much larger version of the same embroidery hanging on the wall. Can you guess which one it is? I can’t wait to frame it and give it a home; it’s a piece of Vietnam I’ll always treasure.

Afterwards , our guide took us for Vietnamese lunch.  Based on my experience with Vietnamese restaurants abroad, I was expecting a casual bowl of pho at some small joint. But when we arrived at HOME Hanoi, I knew we were in for something entirely different. First encounter was the courtyard which had a European charm (a nod to French colonial heritage, perhaps?).

What followed was my first, and luckily not my last, experience of fine Vietnamese dining on this trip: a 10-course set menu. The flavours and cooking styles elevated traditional dishes into more modern versions that were delicious and visually attractive. And while 10 courses might sound like a feast, the dishes were served in small, shareable portions, leaving me satisfied but not uncomfortably full. The highlight for me? The green papaya salad—light, tangy, and irresistibly fresh.

In the afternoon, our first stop was the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum, the final resting place of the revolutionary leader who spearheaded Vietnam’s nationalist liberation movement from French rule (First Indochina War). Affectionately known as “Uncle Ho,” Ho Chi Minh remains deeply revered. In the morning, when the mausoleum is open, the lineups stretch for hours as locals, adults and schoolchildren, as well as foreign tourists wait to pay their respects.

While we didn’t step inside, we took in the solemn grandeur of its exterior -building, military guard and vast green spaces surrounding it. Afterwards we walked to the nearby Presidential Palace and Ho Chi Minh’s residences. I could not help noting how contrasting was the simplicity of his personal life comparing to his role for the nation.

Next on our route was the One Pillar Pagoda, a historic Buddhist temple known for its unique architecture. This small wooden structure, just over a square meter in size, stands perched on a single stone pillar, 4 meters high, in the middle of a lotus pond. Its design is meant to replicate a lotus flower in bloom. Though today’s version is a reconstruction, the original concept dates back to the 11th century. Quite an imaginative design for its time, don’t you think?

Up until that point, we had been shuttled around by car, somewhat removed from the busy traffic. Time had come though for us to get closer to action with a cyclo ride in the Old Quarter.

Nestled under the canopy of this iconic Vietnamese tricycle, we got pedaled along popular streets lined with French colonial buildings. The pace? Let’s just say it was leisurely enough to make me wonder if we were too heavy for our rider (a slight man, like many Vietnamese). My concerns eased when I noticed other cyclos cruising at the same … unhurried speed. The slow pace gave us the perfect opportunity to soak in the street life and snap photos on the go. I felt surprisingly shielded from the surrounding scooter chaos.

One of my absolute must-dos for this trip was to try Vietnamese coffee on its home turf. Vietnam’s coffee culture runs deep and strong, with roots tracing back to the French colonial era. Today, the Central Highlands thrive with Robusta coffee plantations, making Vietnam the second-largest coffee exporter in the world, just behind Brazil.

Coffee is everywhere here - street vendors, cafes, you name it, and the most common way to enjoy it is as a drip coffee, brewed through a small stainless-steel filter placed right over your cup. With the bold and bitter flavour of Robusta beans, Vietnamese coffee is often sweetened with condensed milk, served hot or iced.

I was most curious about trying Vietnam’s unique coffee specialties: egg coffee and coconut coffee, and also learning how to make them, as, for me, coffee isn’t just about the drinking, it’s about the experience of making it too.

I asked our guide for recommendations and he took us to Hanoi Coffee Culture, a cozy café and roastery where they were kind to give us a quick barista class. Item list - checked!

Egg coffee, is a true Vietnamese invention. Back in the late 1940s, a barista at a high-end restaurant, wishing to keep offering specialty coffees, whipped up an alternative to make up for the milk shortage.

He frothed egg yolks to mimic the foaminess of milk, mixed in condensed milk, sugar, and strong Robusta coffee, and voilà—egg coffee was born. It’s both delicious and photogenic. Our barista upped the game by adding a dash of rum, which turned it in a sort of… tiramisu drink? Yummy!

I also tried the iced coconut coffee, which had just a subtle hint of coconut flavour and a slow-blending coffee kick. I think that would be the perfect pick-me-up for a hot summer day.

Needless to say, I overindulged, and while the coffee was worth every sip, I paid for it later!

I guess by that time Huy had taken a good reading of our touristic pulse, so he invited us to try another local favourite - the fresh draft beer, bia hơi. We sat at a tiny sidewalk table, and a lady poured beer straight from a keg. To me it looked more like tea with a frothy top than a beer, but hey, it must be good if so many people like it. I was too full to try it (blame the coffee and earlier indulgences), but Eddie gave it a nod of approval. We sat down for a bit, chatting and watching everyday life unfolding in front of us.

The final stop was the Water Puppet Show that depicts countryside and family scenes. I liked the idea of seeing it, as I found the concept very novel and unique. The live music, the ingenuity of the props and dexterity of puppeteers were remarkable, but 50 minutes of not understanding any word, were kind of … long. I don't think we were the only ones in that spirit, as most people around us, kids included, were either restless or falling asleep. It's a pity indeed as lots of effort must have been put in organizing.

Although the guided tour for the day was over, our exploration wasn’t just yet; we still wanted to check out Train Street, one of those “you’ve got to see it to believe it” places, and a strongly recommended on travel media.

Built in the 1900's by the French, the train tracks slice right through Hanoi’s Old Quarter and are still in use today, with a handful of trains passing daily. Cafes and restaurants line the tracks, and watching a train thunder past within a foot of your seat is the ultimate thrill and their main selling point.

During the train runs intermissions, the tracks transform into a bustling pedestrian area - kids play, people stroll casually, and you’d swear it is the safest place in the world. However, when the train approaches, chaos breaks loose. Security personnel whistles frantically, urging everyone to get back, but nobody strays too far, everybody wants to stay close to the action.

We were lucky (or maybe unlucky) to arrive just minutes before a train came through. We stood near a small street crossing the tracks, behind an iron fence that I thought was just that, a fence. As the train approached, suddenly, a loud noise startled me, and I realized that the fence was doubled by a retractable gate, which slid shut to block the road and people crossing the tracks. As I needed two hands to handle my phone for taking photos, I leaned my crutches against the ‘fence’, thinking I would take them once the train passes.

Hanoi Train Street

As the last car passed, with no warning, the gate reopened, rrrrrreally fast. So fast, it snagged my crutches and nearly yanked me along for the ride. If not for a quick-thinking gentleman nearby who grabbed and pulled me back, I might have been the gate’s second victim. Thankfully, one crutch survived intact, as did I, minus a few bruises that made their debut a couple of days later.

I left the 'scene', walking slowly, with only one crutch, still a bit shaken, but trying to absorb the new look of the city.

During the evening, Hanoi vibe turns up a notch along with an explosion of lights that make the shops, buildings, ambulant vendors fruits, look more colourful and a lot more vibrant. Everything seems to happen on the streets – selling, gatherings, crafts, music or dance performances, and lots of eating.

We made our way back to the hotel and, much like the night before, we found ourselves at a nearby craft brewery to decompress—this time, washing away the lingering scare from Train Street. We sat down again on those tiny chairs, close to the pavement, with front-row seats to Hanoi’s parade of life. It was the perfect way to reflect on our first day in Vietnam, soaking up the city’s Sunday night vibe, one sip at a time.