Krabi, Thailand – A December to Remember!

This year has felt a bit homier. I'm still based in Shanghai but I haven't travelled nearly as much as I usually would. So, I took this chance to catch up on writing about some of our past adventures. Since my last posts were about Vietnam and Cambodia, I thought I’d stay in the neighbourhood and revisit some memories from Thailand.

At the tail end of 2023, we found ourselves scrambling to decide where to spend the Christmas holidays. After a whirlwind of a year, we were still itching to explore somewhere new but didn’t want to venture too far from our Shanghai base. We were craving something laid back, sunny, and stress-free. A bit of digging later, Krabi, Thailand ticked all the boxes.

We chose southern Thailand for its sandy beaches and emerald waters, a temptation we’d already sampled earlier that year in Hua Hin. Krabi stood out for being less touristy than places like Phuket, and I went one step further, landing on Khlong Muang Beach, a quieter stretch known for its seclusion and endless white sands.

It didn’t take long after arriving to shift into a slower rhythm. Maybe it was the sea breeze, the gentle sound of waves, the horizon melting into shades of blue, or the fine sand underfoot. More likely, all of it together - that perfect seaside cocktail that gently nudges you into the moment, and you’re simply there, not thinking about before or after.

We spent a good part of our days walking along Khlong Muang’s peaceful shoreline, soaking up the fresh sea air and the warmth of the sun. Often, evenings were for strolls in search of dinner spots.

One night, we landed at a casual beachside restaurant - colourful tablecloths, mismatched chairs, kids playing barefoot in the sand. It had a laid-back, homey charm. Brightly lit against the dark, sleeping sea and sky, the whole scene felt like a set stage. Looking back at the photos, every shape outlined so clearly, it reminded me of those amateur oil paintings you find at markets — bold colours, defined strokes, slightly naïve but oddly compelling. For the first time, I thought that maybe those paintings are actually spot on.

On our last night we walked a bit further to the Andalaya restaurant and got pleasantly surprised to also be treated with a special fire handling show right on the beach.

Whenever we fancied a bit more action, we would head to Ao Nang, just a short drive from Khlong Muang. As a more established tourist hub, Ao Nang greets you with not only with a sweeping beach, but also a lively mix of restaurants, shops and, naturally, a generous helping of tourists.

We became regulars at the Ao Nang Night Market. While there were a few clothing and souvenir stalls, we went there for the food: freshly caught and cooked seafood, plenty of Thai and imported specialties; a daily feast of colours and aromas, all at unbelievable low prices.

Tucked near Ao Nang, out of plain sight there’s Monkey Beach, which plays a bit hard to get - one can only reach it by boat or by navigating a rather precarious footpath. We chose the latter, and went there one late afternoon. Most visitors had already left (there are time restrictions), and the wet sand was quietly preparing for sunset. It felt like a little oasis of serenity. We walked in near silence, soaking in the calm before heading back to Ao Nang’s lively streets.

I could’ve easily spent the entire holiday just strolling along the fine sand and dipping into those beautiful waters, but … I didn’t. There were too many wonders waiting to be discovered!

So, as usual, I packed in a few activities to make the trip both interesting and ... refreshing:

Hot Springs, Emerald Pool and the Tiger Cave Temple

The full-day trip was a blend of natural beauty and cultural heritage.

We kicked things off with a dip in one of the pools at the Ao Nang (Klong Thom) Hot Springs. The mineral-rich waters are naturally heated by underground volcanic chambers and bubble up into small, cascading pools formed by smooth rock - it’s about as close to a natural spa as you can get. We were lucky to start early and almost had the place to ourselves.

After a short drive from the Ao Nang Hot Springs and a brief walk through the jungle,

which was in fact a natural reserve park, we reached the Emerald Pool (Sa Morakot).

To my surprise, the name truly lived up to expectations - the strikingly beautiful freshwater pool looked like a giant emerald. Crystal clear and refreshingly cool, it was not only eye pleasing, but also too tempting to resist to... yes, another dip!

We continued our walk through the tamed jungle towards the Blue Lagoon (Sra Nam Phut). Tucked away in the forest and off-limits to visitors, perfectly still, shimmering with a surreal shade of blue, the small pool felt like a portal to another world.

We ended our tour with Krabi’s most sacred and most vertical landmark: the Tiger Cave Temple (Wat Tham Sua). Perched atop a limestone peak, it demands a climb of 1,260 steps. Yes, we did it. And yes, it was worth it.

What awaited at the summit wasn’t just a panoramic view, but an unexpected calm that seemed to dissolve the effort put to get there. At the heart of the mountaintop platform stands a towering golden Buddha surrounded by smaller shrines, all seemingly set to rise above worldly concerns. The atmosphere felt like a quiet invitation to pause, reflect, and … just be.

As for the temple’s name - there are no tigers, but plenty of cheeky monkeys along the way who won’t hesitate to swipe your snacks, sunglasses, or anything sticking out of your backpack.

Traditional Thai Cooking Class

I highly recommend taking a Thai cooking class, no matter which part of Thailand you’re visiting. Thai cuisine is in a league of its own - layered flavours, vibrant herbs, that perfect blend of spice and creaminess. Getting a peek behind the scenes, learning a few tricks and techniques, only makes you appreciate it even more.

We signed up for a 3-hour class at Siam Cuisine, a cooking school not far from Ao Nang. Our chef, a tiny powerhouse of a woman, kept us all in rhythm as we chopped, stirred, and laughed our way through 6 or 7 dishes. While I do not remember what exactly we cooked, I do remember is that we ate all we cooked. I also remember that even though it was a late morning class, that meal carried us through the whole day. It was fun, flavourful, and flew by in no time.

Phi Phi and Neighbouring Islands Tour

Our early bird boat tour took us around five different islands, some accessible, others admired from afar: Tube, Chicken, Phi Phi, Bamboo, and Ko Poda. We strolled along the finest beaches, swam, snorkeled, and simply lost ourselves in the awe of it all.

I could write an entire post about this trip and still not do justice to the beauty of the sea and the islands. Being in the middle of it all felt like stepping into paradise - pure, dazzling, and unforgettable.

ATV Ride and Lagoon Kayaking

Eddie really enjoys an ATV ride once in a while, and since he hasn’t had the chance to do much of it, I thought I’d surprise him with a tour. I was hoping that it wouldn’t be too difficult and maybe, just maybe, I’ll get into it too. Well, it was worth a try, even if to confirm that ATVs are not for me. That aside, the ride was pretty cool; it took us through a tropical setting with nice views on mountain Khaothong and had just enough bumps to get the adrenaline flowing.

In contrast, the kayaking that followed was much more subdued and … on a much smaller scale than advertised. We gently paddled through a shallow lagoon at Klong Srakaew, taking in the quiet beauty of the surrounding vegetation. Calm, slow, and relaxing.

(What was supposed to be a) Hong Island Tour with Kayaking

Visiting Hong Island was meant to be the grand finale of our Krabi adventure. I read the reviews, heard glowing recommendations, and I was full of anticipation, despite the discouraging weather forecast.

As time passed we started stopping at other islands not listed in the itinerary, presumably on our way to the Hong Island. Eventually, our guide cracked and revealed the reason for the mystery detours: a Thai royal princess had also chosen that day for a visit, apparently a first in our guide's career, and protocol dictated the island to be cleared for her exclusive use.

The bright side? The weather turned out better than expected. The islets gulfs and beaches, each unique and charming in its own way, proved to be a worthy substitute. So, no regrets, perhaps another reason to return. Next time, we might just check the royal calendar first though.

Our weeklong Krabi holiday came with another first experience: a tropical Christmas! Luckily, another couple we knew was in the area too, so we teamed up for a festive celebration. Since their planning was far more advanced than ours, we happily followed their lead and ended up having Christmas dinner in a... bird’s nest. Yes, an actual (enormous) bird nest, complete with table and chairs, perched up high and offering a breezy, aerial dining experience.

As it is often the case with fancy dining, the lighting was minimal, mainly left to the stars in this case. Between a softly spoken waiter and a barely legible menu, our beautifully crafted set dinner became an impromptu guessing game. A bit of mystery, a lot of flavour, lots of laughter - a truly memorable night.

Bangkok

To get to and from Krabi, we had a layover in Bangkok. On the way back, we turned it into a two-night stopover.

Bangkok is a city that defies a simple description. Each neighbourhood feels like a different world: from the grandeur of royal Buddhist temples and Grand Palace to unpretentious flower markets, buzzing nightlife (complete with very persuasive bar hosts), and massage parlours waiting for your nod. The streets hum with slow-moving traffic, flanked by power cables dangling in chaotic tangles, sometimes so low you instinctively duck. There’s little transition between worlds; you could be staying in a five-star hotel and take a wrong turn into a street you’d rather skip. That said, Bangkok feels safe overall; just keep an eye out for pickpockets and the occasional too-good-to-be-true “deal.”

All in all, it’s a fascinating city and we made the most of our brief stop, ticking off a few of its landmarks:

Wat Pho Temple (Temple of the Reclining Buddha)

Wat Pho is best known for its impressive centerpiece, the 46-metre-long Reclining Buddha.

While the statue steals the show, I found the temple complex equally captivating. The buildings dazzle with intricate decorations, rich in detail and colour. Between them, small, landscaped gardens provide gentle transitions; gracefully arranged with orchids and native plants, they host statues and inscriptions, adding a more grounded, serene vibe to the temple.

Grand Palace

The Grand Palace has served as the official residence of the kings of Siam (now Thailand) since 1782 and, to this day, still hosts royal ceremonies and official events. It’s a vast complex of ornate buildings, pavilions, and manicured lawns. Among them, the Temple of the Emerald Buddha stands out as the most sacred Buddhist temple in Thailand.

Visiting the palace was not exactly a walk in the park – it was hot, the line-ups were long, and the dress code was the strictest we had encountered.

Scarves didn’t count, sleeves were a must, and knees had to be fully covered - long trousers for men and dresses/skirts or long trousers for women. We didn’t meet the standard at first and were turned back without any room for negotiation. Fortunately, and not so coincidentally, a row of shops across the street had all the appropriate attire. That’s when it dawned on me why so many visitors to Thailand may end up wearing elephant-print pants, Eddie included!

Once inside, the grounds are expansive enough to dilute the crowds, and we managed to stroll at a relaxed pace, taking in the intricate architecture.

That was true until we reached the Temple of the Emerald Buddha.

The entrance was packed—a human wall we just couldn’t penetrate on that hot day. We declared ourselves defeated and walked away with a sigh.

Flower Market

If you like flowers, especially orchids, then the Bangkok Flower Market is a place worth a visit. Until then, I had never seen so many cut orchids in one place, let alone imagined these delicate blooms stacked in massive piles, as if they were just another leafy green. Even now, looking at the photos, I find it hard to reconcile with that image, but, I suppose, this is what an orchid hub looks like.

Open 24 hours, this market is a local favourite, especially lively at dawn, when supply trucks roll in from across the country. Though mainly a wholesale destination for local florists, there are also vendors offering bouquets and flower arrangements.

Chatuchak Weekend Market

If you like shopping and aren’t quite sure what you’re after but are game for just about anything (especially if it’s a bargain), then Chatuchak Weekend Market is your playground. This place is huge, you could easily spend an entire day here if you’re a serious shopper or just endlessly curious.

What I particularly liked was the variety of local Thai goods: well-crafted, good quality, and very reasonably priced. Perfect for picking up something for yourself or a few thoughtful gifts.

It was my second time in Thailand, and I intend to not be the last. I’m already eyeing a trip to the north—Chiang Mai is calling! We simply couldn’t squeeze it into this holiday, but it’s firmly on the list.

But above all, what keeps me wanting to return is the feeling of being truly welcome. Everywhere we went, Thai people greeted us with warmth and hospitality. Even in the simplest surroundings, their genuine smiles and joyful presence reminded me how important it is to embrace and be grateful for the present—because it’s the only thing we can be certain of.